Farmers, consumers share risks and rewards

It doesn't get much fresher, more seasonal, or closer to the earth than buying produce directly from the farm through farmers' markets and farm stands. But a unique farm-to-table concept has been cropping up around the country that partners consumers with growers even more closely in a program called Community Supported Agriculture.

Members of a CSA pay a fee upfront to the farmer to buy a share of their harvest before planting begins. In return, shareholders receive fresh fruits and vegetables weekly during the growing season. But, not only do members reap the benefits of a good harvest, they also take a chance.

If a hailstorm, for example, kills off the tomato plants or drought devastates the corn, both the members and the farmers share in the loss. In a CSA, "You're entering into a contract between the farmer and the person willing to take a risk," said Patty Popp, owner of Sport Hill Farm, a nine-acre farm in Easton, with her husband, Allan, a landscaper. She raises a wide variety of vegetables on four acres.

Farming since 2001, this is her second year as a CSA with 22 shareholders. She said she's even had to turn people away. "For the farmer it's great. It enables us to have money upfront for seeds and in return they are sharing in 21 weeks of produce, from Memorial Day to Oct. 13," said Popp.

Every farm runs its CSA differently, said Popp who charges $500 a share for the season. Once a week, either on a Tuesday or Thursday from 1 to 6 p.m., members come to

her farm for a bag of four to five different kinds of vegetables. "People understand they're getting what's growing this week," she said.

For Popp, another benefit of the CSA is that it helps free up her time. With members coming to the farm for their produce, she doesn't do as many farmers' markets as she once did — only one in Weston on Saturdays.

"Markets are hit or miss. One week you may not have enough or too much. I don't have to go anywhere or play a guessing game," she said.

For her shareholders, it's been a bounty of greens in spring to pounds of tomatoes, vidalia onions, cabbages, zucchini and eggplants in the height of summer.

According to Bill Duesing, executive director of the Connecticut chapter of the Northeast Organic Farming Association (NOFA), the number of CSAs in Connecticut has been growing slowly, but steadily, with many new ones starting in the past few years. Memberships can range from just a few people to about 400 shares.

"In other states, there are ones with over 1,000 members," Duesing said in an e-mail. "In Wisconsin, some of them get several thousand dollars toward their membership from a HMO because one of the most common side effects of belonging is eating more vegetables."

Nancy Rockwood, of Easton, said joining Popp's CSA has been great for her and her husband, Irv. They are eating more vegetables than ever and Nancy is learning to cook a few new ones — like kale — with recipes Popp offers her members. "I'm not an adventuresome cook and have come to eating organically gradually," she said. "What I find is everything is so fresh and incredibly better than what I buy in the store. I watch Patty pick the lettuce. I can snip whatever herbs I need [at the farm]."

For the family of two, Rockwood said she does get a lot of vegetables to eat in a week. "I feel I'm saving money if all I was buying was organic vegetables [at the supermarket]," she said. "I'm getting more than $500 of organic vegetables.

She also feels good about leaving a smaller carbon footprint by buying locally. "I love pulling in to the farm and seeing the chickens pecking and scratching."

By joining Popp's CSA, Bob Wall, of Fairfield, likes the idea that his food dollars are staying in Connecticut and that he's helping the environment along with getting wonderful produce. "It's fantastic," he said. "I wanted to join a CSA because I believe in supporting locally grown food.

"Most people don't know the typical food item travels 1,500 miles from farm to plate," said Wall, director of energy marketing initiatives for the Connecticut Clean Energy Fund. "People don't realize the food we eat has a huge impact on global warming."

As far as the risk involved, Rockwood is philosophical. "I feel this is the real world and feel more connected ... We have so much that if I don't get broccoli, the world isn't coming to an end. It's a thrill to be part of it." Walter Greist, 62, owner of Mill River Valley Gardens in North Haven, claims to have the oldest CSA in Connecticut. He said CSAs are indeed "a way for consumers and the farmer to relate to each other."

Greist has been farming since 1983 and grows 85 different crops on three acres of land, he said. He started his CSA in 1989 and today has 86 members. His fee depends on what option people take.

"This year's price of a share is $456," he said, but "I have about 20 people who pay $75 plus commit 60 hours of labor to the farm."

He likes having members work the land with him. "The most important thing [to me] is the support, being out in the fields with other people," he said. "Practically, it's less important, but psychologically, it helps working and connecting with other people."

Because of the CSA, Popp said she has more confidence in her chosen profession and plans on expanding her fields little by little.

"The hardest part about being a farmer," she said, "is the worry. You worry about everything that can go wrong It's a battle with everything.

"Without the CSA, things would be really different," she said. "There was a point where I was doubting. It's such a lot of work."

At Stone Gardens Farm in Shelton, Stacia Monahan and her husband, Fred, have been farming for 10 years and are trying the CSA program for the first time. So far, it's been working well.

"We had a lot of customers ask us to do this and it's beneficial to us; it's guaranteed sales," she said. "We know how much to plant."

They've sold 115 shares. Customers can buy a full season for $600, which runs from the first week in June until Thanksgiving, or a summer season for $400, which goes from July 22 until the end of October, she said. They also sell half shares, which are perfect for singles, and offer shareholders the option of buying additional vegetables at wholesale prices, she said.

"We think it's great," she said. "We have fun doing it and plan on adding more [shares] and planting more. "It's a win, win," she said. For more information, visit www.ctnofa.org. Sport Hill Farm, 596 Sport Hill Road, Easton, 268-3137 www.sporthillfarm.com.

Stone Gardens Farm, 83 Saw Mill City Road, Shelton, 929-2003

Mill River Valley Gardens, North Haven, 248-2096