So it was last week that my new garden shed arrived full of all the amenities that make a well constructed and longlasting shed. Since the shed is where it is clearly visible, first and foremost was its appearance. There is nothing worse than an ugly shed on an otherwise well maintained property - or any property for that fact.
Even more important than the shed itself is getting the proper permits for the shed in the first place. Where I live in Shelton the process was fairly painless, but still I went through a myriad of departments to get an approval for the shed. Now that it's up, the last step is a building structure inspection sign-off.
As for the interior of the shed, I loaded it up with steel and wood free-standing shelving that you can purchase from any building supply store, like Lowes or Home Depot.
These shelves are sturdy and well-constructed and allow me to separate all of my chemicals and fertilizers in neat order, something I was unable to do in the past.
One of the neat features of the shed is a "loft" that I have already filled up with various size stakes, leaf blowers and other equipment that is utilized once or twice a year. Finally, and perhaps the most necessary part of installing a shed, is what to do to keep skunks,
It kind of grosses me out when this happens and it could be dangerous as well.
To prevent this from happening, a stiff-wire mesh was installed 12 inches deep into the ground and bolted to the shed. Nothing, and I mean nothing, is going to get through that mesh or dig its way more than the 12 inches the wire mesh is buried. It's a fairly expensive proposition to purchase a shed, get the permits and "varmintproof " it, but I'm proud of how everything came out and look forward to years of service from the shed.
BEAUTIFUL BASIL
Of all the vegetables in my garden, there is one crop that receives an abundance of praise, admiration, and the inevitable question. "Would you mind if I snipped some?"
For gardeners who grow this crop, you already know why this is such a sought after item fresh from the garden. I'm referring to a summer classic, and an essential ingredient in the kitchen - sweet basil.
Among fresh herbs, sweet basil that is freshly picked from the garden has no rivals (although I'd rank dill and parsley a close second), and really, if you follow a few simple rules, basil is easier to grow than any other herb. In my own garden, sweet basil has a commanding presence.
I have devoted a lot of precious garden space to this herb. The reason for such a large planting of basil is part fear of " running out" of it ( a quite unfounded worry since this crop is so prolific), but the real reason is that there are just so many different and delicious varieties of basil to plant.
And that's just the point. Too many gardeners plant only the sweet basil and neglect the rest, though the more interesting varieties require no more skill or attention to grow, and bring a host of other delights to both the garden and the table.
It's important to realize that you can have a diverse variety of basil plants in a somewhat confined area of the garden, but that you need to give each individual plant room to grow. Spacing of basil plants should be at least 12 inches apart and more room in between plants is even better.
Sweet Genovese ( Genova Profumatissima) is perhaps the most popular of the large- leafed basil varieties and with its " authentic" and purely Italian heritage, it is the quintessential garden basil to be growing.
My personal favorite, however, is the smaller leafed " Piccolo Verde Fino" basil, whose small leaves are ideal for salads and cooking. I even grow a few plants of this variety in a whiskey barrel next to the grill, as its leaves are just perfect for quick seasonings on foods such as fococcia and pizza cooked on the outdoor grill.
I also admire basil plants that impart different flavors or offer interesting foliage and even flowers in some cases.
Siam Queen basil for instance, with its anise- flavored leaves, develop beautiful purple ( salvia- like) stalks atop bushy plants that make them wonderful candidates for edging in the flower garden. A variety called " Monstruoso" or Mammoth, has leaves as big as your hand and always attract a good deal of attention in the garden.
Cinnamon and Opal varieties, with their deep purple leaves, provide a nice contrast of color in the basil patch as does Purple Ruffles with its wavy- edged leaves that seem to dance under the slightest breeze.
Whatever variety you are growing in your garden, there are a few important steps you should know in order to succeed with basil. Most important is that basil requires well- drained soil in full sun.
What you may not know is that basil is rather " touchy" about things like cool brisk winds and driving rain. An exposed location like that, and basil simply has an awful time trying to adapt.
Since basil is a leafy crop you might be tempted into thinking that it is going to need lots of heavy nitrogen feeding. A soil that is rich in organic material and balanced in terms of nutrients is really all that basil asks. Give it lots of fertilizer and you'll get large plants, but you'll also sacrifice flavor as there is a distinct difference in taste in plants that are overfed. My advice is to liquid feed the plants with something like a fish/ kelp emulsion spray, which really intensifies the color and thickness of the leaves.
As for watering, basil is better off kept on the dry side. Excessive water is counterproductive because basil will go limp and become flaccid and is quite prone to disease. A LESSON IN FLAVOR A very important cultural trick is also hormonal in nature: Remove all the flowers that appear on the plants until you are ready to harvest. Every plant has two main stages of growth: vegetative and reproductive. The first stage is when plants grow and increase in size, and the reproductive is when a plant flowers, set seeds, and go dormant. Herbs taste best if harvested just at the point when they begin to flower, before the essential oils in the leaves are directed to the production of seed.
To hold off flowering in basil, simply snip off all the developing flower buds as soon as you see them. With basil, they are easily recognizable as fast growing, leafless shoots from the center growth of the plant. WHAT TO DO WITH IT ALL?
Freshly cut basil dropped into a vase of water will stay fresh on your windowsill for about a week. This is a nice way to have fresh basil in quick reach without frequent trips to the garden to harvest the leaves. You can also take the leaves ( with no stems) and seal them in an airtight bag in the refrigerator with a few paper towels to absorb moisture and protect the leaves.
Don't put fresh basil in the fridge unprotected since it is too cold in there and will only cause the leaves to turn black.
Other methods for preserving basil, include drying ( my least favorite method since dried basil loses so much flavor).
There are two ways to store basil and still retain 95 percent of its freshness and flavor.
The first involves using clean Mason jars and putting down a layer of kosher salt. Lay fresh ( clean, but unwashed) leaves of basil over the salt. Cover with another layer of kosher salt and repeat the process until the jar is filled. Store the airtight jar in the refrigerator and your basil will remain magically green and flavorful for the entire winter.
Another method involves freezing the basil in olive oil. In a blender or food processor, chop 2 cups of basil with a ΒΌ cup of extra- virgin olive oil. Pour the mixture into an airtight plastic container and freeze.
You also can put the paste into ice cube trays, freeze them, and when the cubes are frozen , transfer them into plastic freezer bags. You can then add the cubes into stews, soups, sauces, or mix up a quick pesto sauce with near- perfect basil flavorings.
Q: My newly planted apple tree has leaves covered in brown and yellow splotches while some of them are turning orange with a raised fringe on the outer edge. I have purchased an " orchard spray," but these rusty dots on the leaves don't seem to be going away. Is there anything else I should be doing to get rid of them? - S. Williams, Milford
A: What's infecting your tree is caused by a fungus known as cedar apple rust. Unfortunately, this disease cannot be controlled on this season's apples and leaves. Next spring, when the flower buds turn pink, spray the tree with a fungicide containing zineb or ferbam.
Spray again once the flowers have fallen and again 10 days later. Also, since this disease is alternatively spread by certain species of juniper, be sure your trees are not planted within several hundred yards of the nearest one.
Have questions? Send them to Bing J. Carbone, 46 Winthrop Woods Road, Huntington CT 06484, or e-mail them to bjcgardens@aol.com.
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