Though I'm not much of a golfer, I will play several times a year if for no other reason than I enjoy the meticulous landscaping I find along the 18 holes of play.

One of my favorite courses is in Middlefield at Lyman Orchards.

It's a beautiful course surrounded by plantings of ornamental grasses, beautiful shrubs and trees and, of course, apple orchards.

There is this one spot on the 10th hole that is my favorite.

There's a beautiful gray ranchstyle house bordered by a rustic wooden horse fence. When I play that course this time of year, the owner's yard is engulfed in a swath of bright yellow rudbeckia (Goldstrum).

Rudbeckia and August go hand-in-hand, and when I see those flowers in bloom, I can't help but think that we're at the halfway point of summer. It's actually the reason I planted a number of large clumps in my yard, as well; they are a kind of a summer clock and a beautiful plant that will bloom from now until October.

Rudbeckia can be found in garden centers now; in fact, you can't miss them, as they're one of the brightest flowers in bloom. So what's so great about this yellow charmer? For one, they're virtually foolproof. They'll grow in average soil with normal moisture. They'll flourish in full sun, but will do just as well in partial shade.

For those with deer and rabbit problems, rudbeckia is last on the list that either will munch on. The flowers attract butterflies, and the foliage is rarely harmed by insects or disease.

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This is a perennial that looks great planted in masses or along borders. And talk about a plant that will go on blooming - Rudbeckia can weather a few frosts and still look great. I also like how they look in winter, as the brown center cones add interest and texture.

I wish I could tell you more about how to plant rudbeckia, but there really is no secret. Find the right spot in your landscape; keep in mind they will get about 30 inches tall, dig a hole and plant.

I feed them once in spring with some 10-10-10 granular fertilizer and that's pretty much it for the year.

If you don't have rudbeckia in your landscape, this is something I highly recommend. Once planted, sit back and enjoy the color show for years to come.

BACK IN THE GARDEN

The fall crops that were planted several weeks ago are in need of a second feeding. Fall cabbage varieties are enormous - some weighing in over 20 pounds. If they are to attain that size, plenty of readily available nitrogen must be administered. This side dressing is the last feeding the plants will get until they are harvested in late September, so I like to use a slowrelease 14-14-14 granular mix.

About a half a cup is lightly scratched around the base of each cabbage plant and watered in.

Over the next few weeks, many of the nutrients will be released, while others break down more gradually.

Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower also receive a side dressing, but since these plants have to become rather large in order to set hefty-size heads, I like a faster acting 10-10-10 granular fertilizer. These heavy feeders will also get additional liquid feedings every other week right up to Labor Day.

Turnips are often frowned upon in home gardens because of poor flavor, insect ravage, or just poor growth. Most of these conditions are a result of spring plantings that mature during warm June days. Despite some quick-maturing varieties that are touted as "spring variety," it is only the fall-grown turnips that will yield sweet, delicious and insect free roots. A 10-foot row planted now will produce a sufficient amount of large turnips for an October harvest. The seed should be planted a little deeper than normal (about one-half inch) and is best covered with a soil-less planting medium that will help keep the seeds cool and moist.

My spring spinach crop is quite respectable in terms of size and quality, but this is a crop that I like to eat fresh. Leave it in the ground during three or four consecutively warm June days and the crop is finished. The fallsown seed, however, matures slowly during the cool, bright September days. Spinach that remains unharvested during the fall only gets sweeter in taste and crunchier, rather than bolting to seed. I'll find room to plant several rows of seed, planting them about ½-inch deep and lightly covering the row with straw to help keep it moist.

Lastly, fresh garden loose-leaf lettuce will be making its return over the next few weeks. The cold frame, with its sun-reflecting polycarbonate shield, provided some relief for the heat-sensitive lettuce and produced a reasonably adequate crop, but it can't compete with lettuce harvested under fall-grown conditions. All types of loose-leaf should be sown now, as well as the butter head, Romaine, and icebergs types.

FALL PLANNING

It's true that not many of us are going to relish the thought of winter's return as we bask in August, but we have to turn our thoughts on how we can help some plants get through the winter with a minimum of damage. Roses need some assistance from us in helping to slow down their growth cycle, which left unchecked can endanger their winter survival.

One thing gardeners can do rather easily is to start allowing the spent flowers to ripen and set seed. All fertilizing must be suspended and should be combined with a gradual reduction of water, as well.

Shrubs and trees also must be discouraged from sending out tender new growth, which may have difficulty in hardening before winter. If deciduous hedge plants need a final shearing it's best done in mid-August, when growth has pretty much ceased and new growth shouldn't be a problem. If you haven't been regularly watering your shrubs, however, don't prune them. Wait until next year, as the additional loss of foliage could hurt plants that haven't been well-watered.

FROM THE MAILBAG

Q: My lawn is burned out in a few spots despite repeated and heavy watering. Despite putting down lawn insecticide, I have double checked the lawn for every possible insect possible. The crazy thing is that this occurs in the same areas every year. Any idea what's going on here?
- D. Selix, Shelton

A: It sound as if you have been diligent in controlling and checking for insects in your lawn as detailed in the rest of your e-mail. Here's my best guess; those brown sections or spots are caused by heat-stress from underground ledge. Rock ledge that is buried just under the grass roots heats up during the kind of weather we have been having.

This in turn causes the grass to "burn out" in those sections.

Here's the good news; the burnedout area has not killed your grass.

It'll come back when the weather cools off. Just be sure you're keeping that area well-watered and you'll be fine.

Questions of general interest will be published as space permits. Mail to: Bing J. Carbone, 46 Winthrop Woods Road, Shelton CT 06484, or e-mail him at bjcgardens@aol.com.